Art Arte Kunst 'that's all folks'

DAY 3:  Thursday, September 14, 2017

Our second full day in Venice or Venezia. No sleep for me last night due to jet lag, but Lana had another good long sleep. Set the alarm for 09:00 and we are eager to get an earlier start than yesterday. Before, I describe our day some observations of this fascinating city:

• city of only 80,000 residents attracts over 2 million visitors each year
• so many canals and a gigantic lagoon (but the largest and widest is the Grande Canal, aptly named!)
• incredible labyrinth or maze of streets and dead-ends in which you can get lost many times each day
• you need a good map app and need to ensure your phone is fully charged. Sometimes you need TWO map apps just to be sure which we found out when one place couldn't be found on Randy's phone but was available on Lana's phone
• no cars or vehicles or traffic lights
• lots of public art everywhere
• the canals and water lap up against all the buildings and the city is sinking - combine that with rising oceans and you better get to Venice sooner rather than later
• locals have boats instead of cars (I notice zero lifejackets in any boats)
• when navigating the streets very difficult to orient against north and south, or any direction for that matter as you can't see the sun
• your cellphone will lose its carrier many times in the narrow streets as the satellite isn't receiving the signal so that messes with your confidence in navigation
• there are indeed fish in the canals
• there are beggars in the city, but only found on the bridges over the canals and very few
• any tourist destination will be super busy
• look out for dog poop on the streets!
• many tourists walking around with maps or their cellphones out (like us)
• the tourist areas are just packed with travellers
• our VRBO host describes Venice as "Disneyland"

It is an overcast day when we are out walking and we need to take a light jacket or something to protect against possible rain. We are walking to our day two of the Biennale Arte 2017, but taking in the Giardini location. Giardini is actually a park and they hold the art exhibition every year. It is beside the southern end of the Arsenale location for Biennale Arte. We have some issues with my iPhone app losing the route, but we make it to the location in about 30 minutes. Given we have our pass it is a very fast admission. The Giardini location has about 30 countries represented and you walk around to access the different buildings. Canada is represented so we will go there for certain.

On our arrival, there is a huge lineup and we are thinking of joining it, but fortunately an Arte staff tells everyone to not bother lining up as they won't make it in before the day is over. It is the German exhibit that apparently has performance art. Must be pretty special? Rare to see a long lineup for art. The handout/pamphlet for the Biennale Arte is excellent so we know which pavilions have specific art from that country. We took some pictures and wandered around the site within the park.

We really enjoyed the art in its many forms, but after a couple of hours there is over-stimulation. Good walking as well. Not too busy in each building so you can take your time if you want or simply go in and then get back out. 

Example of misuse of the English language - "restitution" this was the exit for "returning" audio guides. Not sure how restitution got applied here. 

Republic of Korea exhibit facade. Their exhibit was about capitalism, international commerce and advertising so the facade is perfect. 

Japan exhibit. See the hole in the middle. You can stand below and put your head up so you are part of the art work.

This is Lana becoming part of the exhibit above. Her head is inside the clothes above and she swivels so people can see her and she can see them. My agent wasn't with us so I decided not to participate. Hmmmm, it is a free performance but Lana has a big head so they should have charged people to see that LOL!!!

 Canada exhibit. Basically, water squirts out from the middle of the structure and some of the edges of the faux wood. 

Great Britain exhibit. These sculptures are super tall and large. They blinded Lana!

Scandinavian exhibit. No, they are not real swans but a pretty good approximation. 

 Russia exhibit. I think you can get the feeling there is some military presence here...

We are hopeful to have a late lunch at another restaurant that Bourdain had visited in Venice. It is quite a walk from the Giardini/Arsenale area. Our decision is to take a water ride on the Alilaguna boat line #1. You can purchase tickets at the pier so that is good. There are two floating stations and we scan our ticket and find out it is the wrong direction. We can't scan back out so bend down under and then the scan won't work for the gate in the correct direction. We duck down to make it to the floating station. Lots of fellow passengers waiting and very choppy water out in the lagoon area. It is a long ride to the Rialto station. We start in the lagoon and end up in the Grand Canal. Total cost is 7.50Euro each. Beats getting lost walking and very interesting to see the city from this perspective.


We depart the boat onto the floating station and then into the massive crowds at Ponte di Rialto. I have good directions so it isn't too long after crossing the bridge we are at Osteria al Diavolo E Acquasanta. We are seated inside as the weather is looking like rain. We arrive at 13:35. Table for two and the place is reasonably busy for this time of the day. Fortunately, we decided to eat inside as the rain poured down while we were eating. Another great find by Bourdain! Everything was delicious and prices were moderate. The 12% tip was included in the bill. Lana paid with a 50Euro bill and was expecting the 7Euro change back. She had to go to the cashier and ask for it. The server apologized, but we weren't sure if they were expecting us not to ask for it?  ;-)

Osteria al Diavolo E Acquasanta Insalata di Polipo (Octopus salad). The octopus was cooked perfectly and it tasted like it was just caught in the lagoon. Maybe it was?

Lana's dish of Lasagna. Well executed meal. Tasty and creamy meat sauce. 

Randy's dish of Spaghetti all Seppie (Cuttle-fish spaghetti in black sauce). The pasta was done perfectly and the cuttle fish was a great texture. Yes, it is inky black. My lips were constantly black.

We walked to the Museo Ebraico di Venezia (Jewish Museum of Venice) fairly easily in terms of directions. A long distance on a wide and fairly straight street towards the Museum. Very unique for Venice. Lots of shopping (some very high end labels), restaurants and other shops along the street. The street is full of fellow tourists. Easy reception for our cellphones as well so our Map apps worked well. Given it had rained earlier lots of wetness around. 

Entrance fee to the Jewish Museum is 8 Euros each. The museum is located in the Jewish Ghetto. Before entry there is a security lady standing in front of the door. She looks pretty stern and tough. It is like being at airport security. You ensure nothing in your pants/pockets and place all stuff in a tray which gets x-rayed. The security lady scans you and pats you down. You then gain entrance and pick up your belongings. For certain, given the level of terrorism towards Jews and Europeans this makes sense.

We learn in the museum that the word "ghetto" comes from the Italian word for 'foundry'. The area the town of Venezia provided for the Jews was where their foundry had been located. This area is within three canals so separated from the rest of Venice. The museum is on three separate floors in what was probably a residence. A synagogue is within the museum as well. The museum was excellent and we learned so much more about Jewish religious practices and their history in Venice. The Venetian Jewish population like German Jews was Ashkenazi origin and integrated since the Middle Ages.

Jewish Ghetto of Venice

Jewish Ghetto of Venice map.

About a thirty minute walk to our apartment from the museum. Lana is looking for Haribo candy and found some Haribo licorice. We will get changed and then walk to the boat station in the nearby lagoon to catch a water bus to the island of Burano. Our restaurant destination is Trattoria da Romano. Another Bourdain favourite and known for having the very best Go Risotto in all of Venice. The restaurant has been in the family for four generations! Go Risotto is a regional specialty dish--made with small white fish. 

We pay 40 Euros for a 24-hour pass as we need to take a water bus tomorrow morning to get our rental car. The #12 water bus finally shows up at 18:40. It is about a 50 minute ride to the island of Burano. I can't believe the size of the Venetian lagoon. Check out the picture below to have some perspective on the area of the lagoon. It is only about a five minute walk from the dock to the restaurant so we are seated around 19:30. Only two other tables occupied in the very large restaurant. 

Ambulance boat - Venice does not have ambulances as vehicles.  :-)

 Colourful buildings on Burano Island. This island is known for this feature. Lots of boats parked along the canal. 

Trattoria da Romano is a classic Italian restaurant in all senses. The servers are dressed up with white shirts and proper pants. All tables have white tablecloths. Each table has a vase with beautiful flowers. The server spoke pretty good English with the Italian accent I love. He indicated that for lunch they had 140 guests so that pretty much made their day. By the time we arrived most diners had already headed back to Venice. We are glad we opted to the dinner service as there was no waiting for a table and the restaurant was pretty quiet. There were many locals at the bar/cashier area talking and drinking.

Appetizer of grilled vegetables; eggplants, zucchini and peppers.

 Server apportioning our Romano Risotto or better known as "Go Risotto". It is supposed to be the best Go Risotto in all of Venice. 

 Pretty large portion size and awesome risotto dish. The rice was chewy and toothy. Tasty and delicate flavours--Lana thinks they make fish stock with the fish first and use that for the risotto. You add a little bit of fresh ground pepper. The glass of house white wine went perfectly with the risotto. 

As we were walking towards the dock we saw the water bus pulling up and started running to catch it. They waited for us and then took off. We presumed the water bus was heading back to Venice. We realize after about 30 minutes we are not going back to Venice as it is finishing its route and then will double back? Very dark outside so can't really see anything except for occasional lights. At the second stop the deck hand yells at everyone to get off. The "San Marco" boat is just one pier over. We walk to it and then ask their deck hand about Fondamento Nove station and he points us to the boat we just left. Yikes! We recognize now that we went in the wrong direction. This will be one long boat ride! We caught the boat at 20:30 and make it to our station in Venice at 22:15. Doh!

Very dark and thankfully our apartment is about five minutes away. We load some pictures onto the blog and check some email. We make it to bed around 23:00 without finishing the daily blog. I am hoping I get some sleep tonight and shake off the jet lag. Another interesting day in Venice. This is a very unique European city.